Diamonds and beyond … antique engagement rings are becoming a bride's best friend. For generations, engagement rings have symbolized eternal or everlasting love, and antique engagement rings are proving to stand the test of time. Today, many couples are bypassing new jewelry and pledging their love with jewelry that has a bit of history.
"The ornate styles are more popular since they usually have an elaborate, delicate workmanship that is impossible to find in even high-end commercial rings these days," said Cara Chell, a Madison, Wis., antique jewelry dealer who operates the web site Easy Street Antiques.
The engagement ring dates to the early Victorian era when it included extravagant designs such as floral, serpent or even dragon motifs. Diamond were added to the mix in the mid-1800s. Since many associate Victorian times with romance, these early rings yield high dollar amounts at auctions.
"A lovely antique engagement ring from another time in history is a wonderful way to express one's individuality," said Charlotte, N.C.'s Jan Walden, owner of Antique Jewelry at Topazery. "It's an especially romantic way for a man to ask a woman to marry him."
Susan Hayes, a Rolling Hills Estate, Calif.-based antique jewelry dealer, said the decision to buy antique may have more to do with color and style than appreciation for the past.
"The current popularity of white metals has had the most significant impact on the vintage engagement ring market because young people are currently very interested in white metals," she said. "For that reason, they have found older styles in platinum and white gold appealing."
Although Hayes said she's preferred white metals since her teenage years, most people jumped on the bandwagon about five years ago. Two-toned (yellow and white gold) rings have gained steam with young brides, and some are looking for rose (pink) gold, she reported.
"The most popular rings are filigree diamond rings or sapphire and diamond engagement rings set in platinum or white gold," Walden said.
Several antique jewelry dealers cited Art Deco (1920-1935) and Edwardian (1901-1915) rings with a round brilliant cut as the most sought after.
However, the twenty something demographic often inquires about the princess cut gems, said Dori Hare, a St. Petersburg, Fla. -based vintage jewelry dealer who does antiques shows and sells online.
"We do get asked for old mine cuts and old European cuts at times," she added.
Prices for the symbols of everlasting love can from start under $50 for "a 1950s gold band with a very tiny diamond" to thousands of dollars.
Hare recently listed a $2,500 yellow and gold platinum ring from the Art Deco period on her Web site.
Although a diamond remains the stone of choice for most, sapphires and rubies have gained popularity as a center stone, Hayes said. To personalize the choice, some brides select their birthstone.
Chell advised, "thinking beyond diamonds." "We've seen some splendid ruby rings," she continued. "Some people just equate diamonds with engagement. If you get a bit more adventuresome, you might have more chances at finding something spectacular."
Chell herself received a two-carat, emerald-cut sapphire engagement ring, which she adores to this day.
Hayes, while not yet married, has a platinum and ruby engagement ring from Tiffany & Co. dating to the 1930s that she'd wear.
"Brides are also choosing gemstones like sapphires, emeralds and rubies as the main stone," Walden agreed. "They will choose a beautiful filigree sapphire ring set in platinum with old cut diamonds for accent stones. Also popular are rings set with old cut diamonds, for example - rose cut diamonds, old mine cut diamonds or old European cut diamonds. These 'old cut' diamonds have a special charm and patina all their own. These diamonds were cut by hand before modern cutting techniques evolved. They have a soft romantic glow, which is very appealing."
Dealers find their inventory of antique engagement rings through estate sales, auctions and other dealers. Hare often has people approach her with jewelry at shows after looking over her offerings.